Southern Thailand Tour Day 1

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Almost exactly three years ago, I did my first bike ride ride in Thailand.  The excellent Samila Century Ride 2013.  Since then my friends and I have occasionally discussed doing another ride in Thailand.  Nothing came of those chats until the Perlis Bike Ride 2016 was cancelled due to lack of interest.

The Perlis Bike Ride had been scheduled on the same weekend as the Satun International Century Ride Thailand 2016.  I had opted for the Perlis ride as Perlis is the only state in Peninsular Malaysia where I have yet to ride.

With the Perlis ride off the calendar, Leslie suggested that we do the Satun ride instead.  And to make the long drive to Satun even more worthwhile, he suggested we take a few days to ride around in southern Thailand.

That sounded like a good idea to Lay, Marco, Philip and I.  As Leslie had already done a few bike tours around Thailand, he volunteered to map out a route and itinerary for us.

The five of us met at the Sungai Buloh R&R area at 6.00am.  Leslie, Marco and Philip in one vehicle, and Lay and I in another.  We had 490km / 304mi to drive to the border town of Padang Besar.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

The only concern we had about the entire trip was where to park our cars in Padang Besar.  Our worries about leaving our vehicles unattended for three nights were put to rest when the sergeant at the Padang Besar Police Station let us park inside the station compound.

With parking sorted out, we get ready to ride.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

The Padang Besar Police Station was the official start and end point for our four-day tour of southern Thailand.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

We rode from  Padang Besar to Satun.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

The most convenient border crossing between the two towns is at Wang Kelian.  The road to Wang Kelian and beyond bisects a ridge of hills between Padang Besar and Satun.

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The switchbacks were a significant challenge.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

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Graphic courtesy of veloviewer

Like the rest of us, Lay was glad to get to the top after more than 200 meters / 760 feet of climbing over 2.5km / 1.5mi.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

Just as we were about to negotiate the switchbacks down to Kampung Wang Kelian, the sky suddenly darkened and it started to pour.  It rained so hard that water was streaming down the road.  The risk of skidding was high, even at low speeds.  Keeping my speed low was difficult because my brakes were getting very little grip on my alloy rims.  Philip had so little braking on his carbon rims that he had to walk his bike down the steeper sections.  It was a sketchy descent for all of us.

We waited out the rain in a small sundry shop in Kampung Wang Kelian.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

The rain was torrential for about fifteen minutes.  Just as suddenly as it had started, the rain stopped.

(I’ll write a review of our waterproof Apidura saddle packs.  Suffice to say here that our belongings stayed bone dry, despite the deluge.)

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

4km / 2.5mi down the road is the Thai-Malaysian border.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

Immigration formalities didn’t take long.  Then we were back on our bikes for the 14km / 8.5mi ride down through the valley before reversing direction and riding south to Satun.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

We had to be at the Satun City Hall by 5.30pm.  The program for the Satun International Century Ride included a pre-ride dinner and remembrance ceremony for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej.  We didn’t want to be late.

The first order of business was to say hello to Khun Metharin.  She had organised the Samila Century Ride in 2013, and together with Wesee Sport, was the organiser for the Satun ride.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Also in the photograph are the emcee for the event, and a news cameraman.  The three of them conspired to get me to do a recorded interview about where Team Flipside was from, how we felt about participating in the Satun ride, and to share my thoughts about the passing of Thailand’s revered and beloved king.

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Photograph courtesy of WeSee Sport

Then it was dinner time.  The start of four days of good eating in Thailand!

The evening ended with some speeches by officials from Satun Province, followed by 89 seconds of silence and a remembrance ceremony for the late King Bhumibol.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Tong

We gathered up our goodie bags, turned on our bike lights, and wove our way through an unexpected night market on our way to the SinKiat Buri Hotel.  Our home for the next two nights.

It had been a very early start to the day.  And there were many kilometers to ride the next day.  Time for me to call it a night.

How to Talk Like a Cyclist in Malaysia

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Paceline.  Groupset.  Magic spanner.  Aero.  Sticky bottle.  Bike throw.  Road rash.  Endo.

A small sample of the English words and phrases likely to come out of the mouth of a cyclist.   Throw in the French, Flemish, Dutch and Italian terminology common to the sport, and it is no wonder that most non-cyclists are baffled by cyclospeak.

Not to be outdone, Malaysian cyclists have a few cycling terms of their own.  Such as:

Bojio
A Hokkien phrase which means not inviting someone along to an event or activity.
Often used in Facebook comments in response to postings of Strava ride summaries.

Ceria rider
The Malay word for “cheerful.”  Refers to someone who rides purely for fun.
“No lah.  I don’t want to do a century ride.  I am a ceria rider only.”

FFK
The abbreviation of Fong Fei Kei.  A Cantonese phrase which means a betrayal or breaking of a promise / deal made with another party.
In this case a person who did not turn up for a group ride as promised.
“Next time you FFK, you have to buy everyone breakfast.”

Hantu / Ghost rider
The Malay or English word referring to an unregistered, non-paying rider in an organised event.
“The registration damned expensive.  So just be a ghost rider lor.”

Just buy a new bike
The standard advice given to any cyclist who has even the slightest thing go wrong with their bicycle, or who muses about buying a new component or upgrading an existing one.
“Eh.  Your shifting quite noisy.  Just buy a new bike lah.”

Kaki besi
A Malay phrase meaning “iron legs.”  Refers to a strong rider.
“That guy kaki besi one.  I can’t follow him.”

Kaki jelly
The opposite of kaki besi.  Literally means “jelly legs.”
“So much climbing today.  I got kaki jelly now.”

Kena conned
Refers to being tricked into riding further / faster/ higher than anticipated.
“She said we are riding about 50km today.  Ended up riding for five hours.  I really kena conned.”

Kena racun / Got poisoned
This Malay or equivalent English phrase is used to refer to a person who was persuaded to upgrade an existing, or buy a new, bicycle component.
“He kena racun and bought a set of Zipp 404s.”

Nubis Kubis
A term for a newbie.  If anyone knows why the Malay word for cabbage, “kubis,” is part of this phrase, let me know.
“I am a nubis kubis.  Dare not use clipless pedals.”

Pancit
A Malay word that is most likely a corruption of the English word “punctured.”  The equivalent of “blowing up.”
“I have to stop for a while.  Pancit already.”

Santai ride / Chillax ride
The Malay word for “relaxed,” and the English portmanteau word combining “chill” and relaxed.”
“Don’t worry.  It will be a santai ride.  Average speed less than 25kph”  (See Kena conned above)

Smoke me
What a kaki besi does to a nubis kubis.  Leaves them in the dust.
“That girl smoked me.  After a few kilometers I couldn’t see her anymore.”

Tarik me
The Malay word for “pull.”  With the same meaning in a cycling context.
“You got kaki besi mah.  So you tarik me lah.”

 

I’m going for a santai ride in the morning.  I’ll be alone, so no one to tarik me.  Hopefully none of my friends complain that I bojio them.

Food Hunt Ride II

The Saturday ride was so much fun that we did the same again on Sunday.  There were a few minor differences.  We had more people in the group this time.  It was already sunny, rather than misty, at the start.  We rode to Rawang via Kuang instead of along the LATAR Expressway toward Templer Park.

And we stopped for breakfast at Restoran Sri Indah, which is 500 meters / 0.3 mi from Restoran Teratak Nogori.  Lay had recommended that restaurant to us.

It was a very good recommendation.  They had my favorites.  Nasi lemak, sardines, brinjals and pumpkin.  And a fried egg for good measure.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

After breakfast we showed Evelyn, Lay and Wai Choong our scenic discovery from the day before.  This time posing for a photograph at the entrance to the Templer Park Country Club, with that impressive limestone outcrop in the background.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

We duplicated our route back into Kuala Lumpur.  Right down to stopping at Born & Bread Cafe for drinks and more cake.

I didn’t expect it, but that pandan crème brûlée topped with jackfruit slivers was excellent.

We had planned to head north from Rawang after breakfast and do the Ulu Yam climb in reverse.  It was so hot that we decided against it.

As compensation of sorts, we left Born & Bread Cafe and dragged ourselves up Changkat Tunku to the official residence of the Mayor of Kuala Lumpur.  Hence the nickname of that climb.  Mayor’s Hill.

Once heart rates had fallen enough so we could see properly, the view of the KL skyline from 120 meters / 394 feet above sea level is quite impressive.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

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As hot as it was, we naturally had to stop in TTDI for a bowl or two of icy, sweet cendol before finishing the ride.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

My diet started today!

Food Hunt Ride I

Admittedly most of my Flipside group rides involve food.  We have a list of restaurants and coffee shops that are on regular rotation.

Last Saturday we tried somewhere new.  Mark (our expert food spotter) had noticed a particularly crowded restaurant during one of our previous rides through Rawang.  We decided that would be our breakfast stop that morning.

It was very misty as we rode along the Guthrie Corridor Expressway towards the Lagong Toll Plaza.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

About 50km / 31mi into the ride we arrived at the red awnings of Restoran Teratak Nogori.

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Photograph courtesy of Leslie Thong

Mark had been attracted by the sign advertising steamed nasi lemak.  The nasi lemak was as good as advertised.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

After we got back onto Jalan Rawang we took a little detour into the housing area bordering Templer Park.  The road is much quieter there, and the views are nice too.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Our route back from Templer Park into Kuala Lumpur took us toward the junction of Jalan Sentul and Jalan Tun Razak.  Right where our Bangsar Cycling Group buddy, Danial, has just revitalised the Born & Bread Cafe.

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We had to stop there for a coffee and some cake.

The mist of the morning had long burnt off, and it was hot when we left the cafe.

To get back to where we had started our ride, we had to cut through Taman Tun Dr Ismail, popularly known as TTDI.  Which happens to be the location of a good cendol stall.  Given the temperature, a cendol stop was called for.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

An excellent way to set us up for the last 15km / 9mi  of a 100km / 62mi ride.

Small Chainring + Biggest Cog

The first road bike I owned was equipped with a standard 53 / 39 chainring and an 11 – 25 cassette.  That was seven years ago in the flatlands of Houston, Texas.  I was fifty two years old.

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Two years later I moved to Den Haag.  North Holland is not noted for hills, but South Holland and Belgium are.  A trip in April 2011 to the Ronde van Vlaanderen sportif introduced me to the many short, sharp hellingen which have made that race one of the Monuments of professional cycling. The Muur van Geraardsbergen featured that year, with its maximum gradient of 19.8%.

There were other hilly events to be ridden in the year to come.  One was the Amstel Gold sportif down in the corner of South Holland that shares a border with Belgium to the west and south, and Germany to the east.  Another was the sportif which preceded the 2012 UCI World Championships, held that year in Limburg, South Holland.

My first encounter with the hills of Belgium convinced me that I needed lower gearing on my bike the next time I ventured south to ride.  A few months later I had a second road bike.  Equipped with a compact 50 / 34 chainring and an 11 – 28 cassette.

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At the end of 2012 I moved back to Kuala Lumpur.  Where any ride to the north or east of the city means venturing into the foothills of the Titiwangsa Mountains.  These mountains are molehills compared to the Pyrenees, the Alps, or the Rockies, but they do present more than enough of a challenge for my now fifty nine year old knees.

My rides these days are on a bike with a compact crank and an 11 – 32 cassette.

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Photograph courtesy of Alchemy Bicycle Co.

I use the 34 tooth chainring – 32 tooth cog combination quite a lot.  On yesterday’s ride from Batu Lapan Belas to Titi and back for instance.  This is the elevation along the route we took.

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Graphic courtesy of veloviewer.

The climb to the summit of Genting Peras “officially” starts at the Simpang Peras T-junction.  The warm up for the climb proper is the 50 meters / 165 feet of elevation over the 1.5km / 1mi on Jalan Sungai Lui before Simpang Peras.

This is Lay, Eugene and I heading into the mist on the lower slopes of Genting Peras.

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Photograph courtesy of Danial

9km / 5.5mi and 404 meters / 1,325 feet of elevation later Marco and the rest of the group were catching our collective breaths at the summit.

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Photograph courtesy of Danial

The first time I did this ride, I thought that the 13km / 8mi from the summit to Kampong Kongkol was all downhill.  Imagine my surprise when I found that the descent is broken into three sections, with 200 meters / 656 feet of climbing between sections.

Of course we had to take the scenic way from Kampong Kongkol to Titi.  Through Kampung Chennah and Kampong Puom.  That is the loop to the right in the elevation graphic above.

It is a very pretty ride down into the valley formed by the Sungai Kongkol to Kampung Chennah, and then along the Sungai Kenaboi until Kampung Temelang.  The road is bordered by a series of small villages, rubber plantations, goat farms, oil palm estates and a durian orchard.  Then you have to pull yourself out of the valley and back up to Jalan Kuala Klawang – Semenyih.

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Photograph courtesy of Evelyn Bird

The view back across the valley is worth the climb.

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Photograph courtesy of Simon Soohu

There are a number of good Hakka kopitiams (coffee shops) in Titi.  We were very ready for our breakfast of pan mee, soft-boiled eggs, toast with kaya and iced coffee by the time we sat down.

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Photograph courtesy of Evelyn Bird

Titi is one of those small Malaysian towns far from a major highway, where time passes slowly.  As illustrated by the sign and chick blinds at this shop across the road from our kopitiam.  Along with the usual necessities:  clothes (baju), shoes (kasut), and fabric (kain), Ho Keng Kee sells a much more unusual item.  Rubber tapping knives (pisau penoreh).

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Photograph courtesy of Evelyn Bird

You don’t come across this in your local supermarket.

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All that remained after breakfast was the little matter of 650 meters / 2,130 feet of climbing back to the summit of Genting Peras.

In preparation we filled our bottles with fresh coconut water and ice from a stall in Titi.  Notice the pink funnel.  They must fill a lot of bottles for cyclists.

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Photograph courtesy of Eugene.

Then it was small chainring + largest cog time for the 13km / 8mi from Kampung Kongkol to the summit of Genting Peras.  We regrouped and had a bit of a rest at the summit.  Then we all rolled safely down the mountain and over the final 11km / 7mi to Batu Lapan Belas.

The odds are I will be in the small chainring + biggest cog during my next ride.  My knees aren’t getting any younger.

The Replacement Melaka International Century Ride 2016

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I was one of about 3,000 people who paid to participate in the Melaka International Century Ride 2016.  It would have been the third consecutive time I had ridden the Melaka Century Ride.

You can read about the 2015 edition here.

You can read about the 2014 edition here.

This year’s Melaka Century Ride was scheduled for 30th October.  On the evening of 25th October, the event organiser, Myskill Media Sdn. Bhd., issued a statement announcing that the event had been cancelled due to “financial problems.”

This announcement was met with disbelief, and not a small amount of anger, by everyone who had coughed up RM130 each to participate.  Many felt that the approximately RM400,000 in participation fees collected by Myskill Media, plus support from sponsors, was sufficient to run this event.

Myskill Media’s offer to hand out event jerseys and finisher’s medals on the day before the ride was scheduled added fuel to the fire, prompting comments that can be summarized as “You can keep your ****ing jersey and medal.  I want a full refund.”

The plot thickened when the cycling kit supplier announced that he had not released the jerseys and medals because Myskill Media had not yet made full payment for them.  Myskill Media subsequently cancelled the distribution of jerseys and medals, instead saying that they would post the items to participants.  None of us believe this will happen.

I suspect the effect of this cancellation will be felt for some time.  Not just by Myskill Media, which has had numerous police reports made against it, some at the behest of the Chief Minister of Melaka, who stated that the state government would support police investigations by standing as witnesses.

But also by other cycling event organisers.  Many in the cycling fraternity feel that they have been conned by Myskill Media.  That financial fraud has been committed.  Riders will think twice about trusting the organisers of future events.  It may be that the number of road cycling events in future will shrink to just the few which have established a positive reputation.  Events like the Janamanjung Fellowship Ride, which has been a standout example of excellent event organisation for some years now, and the LEKAS Highway Ride, which has benefitted from having heavyweight sponsors like Shimano, RHB, and IJM Land.

The money that we participants had sunk into this year’s Melaka Century Ride was not limited to the registration fee.  Many had paid for advance hotel reservations, bus charters, flights and so on.

Bayou Lagoon Park Resort, the official hotel for this event, deserves credit, kudos, and appreciation.  The hotel management offered participants the option of a full refund, or room vouchers valid for six months.

I was among a group of eleven who were booked into the Novotel Melaka, so we were out of luck as far as refunds for accommodation were concerned.  To make the best of a bad deal, we decided to travel to Melaka as planned, and to ride our own route.  Most of the group made a weekend of it, with a round of golf on Saturday, enroute to Melaka.

I don’t play golf, so I drove to Melaka on Saturday evening.  I do eat though, and joined everyone at Kocik Kitchen, in the Jonker Street area, for a bowl of cendol.  Made at that stand outside the entrance.

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Photograph courtesy of sgmytaxi.com

The next morning we were all present and accounted for, ready for our ride.

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Photograph courtesy of TH Lim

We rode to Muar first.  It was my job to guide the group along the route used for the Audax BRM400.  I am pleased to report that I didn’t get lost this time.  Rather than ride straight back to Melaka, we took a longer return route through Tangkak and Jasin.

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The first order of business upon arriving in Muar was a group photograph in front of the monument built to commemorate the coronation of the current Sultan of Johor.

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Photograph courtesy of Simon Suhoo

Attention then turned to more important matters.  Muar is home to a noted oyster misua restaurant.  We had to find it though.

After 30 minutes of fruitless searching we came across Otak Otak Cheng Boi on Jalan Bentayan.  No chairs and tables here.  Just a couple of men at a long grill turning out dozens and dozens of grilled fish cakes.  You place your order, pay, and leave with your piping hot otak otak.

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Photograph courtesy of wikipedia.org

We left with 100 of these feather palm wrapped grilled fish cakes.  50 to a box.  We finished one box while standing in the covered porch in front of the shop.  The other box went into a backpack, to be taken wherever we ended up for lunch.

That turned out to be Kedai Makanan Yong Kee on Jalan Haji Abu, better known as Glutton Street.

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Photograph courtesy of Kino Lim

We got there at about 11am, and the place was packed.  Every table was taken.  So we spread out and stood behind people who looked like they were almost finished eating.  Waiting to claim their stools and their tables as soon as they stood up.

Within ten minutes we had commandeered a couple of tables.  Food orders had been made while we were still waiting for tables, so it wasn’t long before we were tucking into bowls of wan tan mee.  And more otak otak.

Midway through our meal, we all had to get up and move our bicycles.  We had stacked them around an unoccupied street stall outside Yong Kee.

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The vendor had arrived, and wanted to open for business.

Fed and watered, we headed back over the Muar River and north to Tangkak.  Well-known as the main entryway to Gunung Ledang (Mount Ophir).  We gave the mountain a miss, opting for the cool of a PETRONAS station instead.

It had been a largely overcast day, but by the time we left Tangkak for Jasin, the sun had started making itself felt.  We ducked into the forecourt of a Petron station in Jasin for a rest and a toilet break.  We agreed to stop again at whichever petrol station we came across after the next 2okm / 12mi or so.

We needed that next stop for two reasons.  One reason was that after 70km / 43mi of almost pan-flat terrain, we had ventured into hillier country.  We were all working harder to get ourselves over the rolling countryside.  Hence a short rest along the way.

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Photograph courtesy of Simon Suhoo

The second reason was that the weather went from dry to raining very hard in a matter of minutes.  As good fortune would have it, a PETRONAS station appeared exactly 20km after we left Jasin.

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Photograph courtesy of Simon Suhoo

It was literally a cloudburst.  Lots of water fell in a short time.  Then the rain stopped and the sun came back out.  As we rode away from that petrol station in Ayer Molek I noted how quickly the roads had dried.

We all rolled into the Novotel car park 15km / 9mi later.  It was time for something cold to drink, and later that evening, something to eat.

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Photograph courtesy of Tripadvisor.com

Well worth a visit, despite the hour-long wait for a table.  Nyonya food at its best.

Despite the frustration over the cancelled century ride, we all had a good time.

Good company, nice roads, and delicious food.

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The Tandem Men Depart Kuala Lumpur

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Logo courtesy of thetandemmen.com

After three days of rest and relaxation, and catching up with friends, John Whybrow and George Agate resumed their circumnavigation of the globe by tandem bike.

Nine of us met John and George, and their hosts from the previous night, for breakfast in the Ampang area.  This restaurant is a branch of a very well-known eatery in Alor Setar, Kedah.

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Photograph courtesy of syarulzaman.com

Breakfast was the staple that is roti canai, or the less usual nasi kandar.  Then it was time to start pedalling, but not before some group photographs.

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Photograph courtesy of The Tandem Men

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Photograph courtesy of The Tandem Men

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Photograph courtesy of Alvin Lee

It was 9.30am when we started leading John and George from the restaurant onto the MEX highway, and then onto the KESAS highway.  Retracing the route we took with them into KL.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

KESAS was the preferred option, rather than alternate routes out of KL, because of the motorcycle lane that is separate from the main roadway.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Which gave me the opportunity to distract George with some chatter.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

My Flipside friends and I regularly ride along the KESAS highway between Bukit Jalil and Bandar Botanic.  We often stop for breakfast in the township of Kota Kemuning.  Which also happens to be where Meng Thai Cycle Sdn. Bhd. is located.  One of our favourite bike shops.

It was 11.15am.  Meng Thai normally opens at 1.30pm on Sundays.  We called Lee to see if he would open early, and give Daisy the tandem bicycle a once-over.  The doors were open when we got there at 11.30am.

Daisy got a bit more than a once-over.  Lee washed her thoroughly.

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Photograph courtesy of The Tandem Men

He also installed a new chain and new disc brake pads, and gave her a tuneup.

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Photograph courtesy of The Tandem Men

All free of charge.  A massive thank you to Lee and Meng Thai Cycle for their contribution to keeping The Tandem Men rolling.  Check out those shiny chains.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Daisy was in the best shape possible.  The only downside was that it took Lee three hours to get Daisy sorted out.  Enough time for the nine of us to talk the ears off George and John, to eat lunch at the restaurant next door, and to each have a bowl of yummy cendol.

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Photograph courtesy of cavinteoh.blogspot.com

It was hot when we started in the morning, and it was hotter when the eleven of us got back on the road at 2.30pm.  We were between Shah Alam and Klang, where the temperature reading was 33°C / 91°F.

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Graphic courtesy of The Dark Sky Company LLC

The “feels like” temperature was even higher.  40°C / 104°F in Kota Kemuning.  Because of the temperature, the time, and how far we had to ride to get home, we decided to bid farewell to John and George when we got them back to the KESAS highway.

The guys were concerned about where they would stay for the night.  It is a three-day weekend, and when George checked during lunch, all the reasonably-priced accommodation in Port Dickson was fully booked.  Given the time that they left Kota Kemuning, they weren’t sure that they would even get to Port Dickson tonight.

The lucky charm must be working.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

John and George didn’t get to Port Dickson tonight, but they did find a place to stay.  A dangau, or traditional plantation hut, in a campground near Sepang.

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Photograph courtesy of George Agate

Here’s hoping that charm brings good luck to John and George throughout the rest of their travels.

All of us will be following their progress with great interest, and hope and pray that they get back to Canterbury safely, and as Guinness World Record holders.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

The Tandem Men

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Logo courtesy of thetandemmen.com

Three months ago a former colleague of mine asked if he could connect me with two guys who are attempting to be the first pair to circumnavigate the globe on a tandem bicycle.  A ride that would take them through thirty countries.

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Photograph courtesy of thetandemmen.com

Andy told me that at the time, the guys were cycling between Istanbul, Turkey and Tbilisi, Georgia.  Their route from Thailand to Singapore would bring them through Kuala Lumpur.

I replied “I would love to meet up with your friends when they come through KL.”

It then went quiet until last Monday, when I received a WhatsApp message from George Agate, one of The Tandem Men.  John Whybrow and he had just crossed the border between Thailand and Malaysia, and were on their way to Georgetown.

That’s when I opened up their website, The Tandem Men, and checked their route through Malaysia.  John and George has started their 29,000km / 18,000mi journey from Canterbury, England in June.  Since then they pedalled through France, Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany, The Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey (arriving there on the day of the attempted coup d’état), and ending the European leg  of their round-the-world trip in Georgia (due to a detour after not being able to get visas to enter Iran).

They then flew from Tbilisi to Mumbai, India, to start the Asian sector.  From Mumbai they cycled down the west coast of the sub-continent to Nagercoil, before heading northeast to Chennai.  A flight across the Bay of Bengal took them to Bangkok, their first stop in South-East Asia.  Now they were almost on my doorstep.

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Map courtesy of thetandemmen.com

My initial reply to George was to welcome them to Malaysia, and to suggest an alternate route for them to follow from Georgetown to Kuala Lumpur.  The route on their website was via the North-South Expressway.  This would not work because bicycles are not allowed on the North-South Expressway.  Never mind that the volume and high speed of the traffic on that highway make it a dangerous place for cyclists to be.

I suggested that they use the coastal roads through Seri Manjung and Kuala Selangor instead.  Further to pedal, but more scenic, and with less traffic to contend with.  That route would also allow my friends and I to meet them in Bandar Botanic, and to ride with them along the KESAS and MEX highways into KL.

I also offered to host them while they were in KL, and I was delighted that they took me up on my offer.

George and John did follow the coastal route, spending nights at Seri Manjung and Kuala Selangor on Tuesday and Wednesday respectively.  On Thursday morning, Lay, Marco and I rode to Bandar Botanic, where  I had suggested we meet.

The three of us got to Bandar Botanic a bit early.  We parked ourselves at Restoran Resepi Warisan for nasi lemak, teh tarik and iced coffee.  The restaurant was a couple of hundred meters from the point on Jalan Langat where I had suggested we meet.

I sent The Tandem Men our location via WhatsApp.  A few minutes later John and George rolled up to the restaurant.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Fantastic!

We got another round of drinks before heading to the motorcycle lane along the KESAS highway.

One of the many rules rules stipulated by Guinness World Records is that George and John are not allowed to draft.  So the tandem bike led the way, complete with its 35 kilo / 77 pound complement of panniers, bags and water bottles.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Taking KESAS to get into KL from the west was certainly a better option than coming in from the north via Jalan Kuching.  Not having to share the road with cars, vans and lorries is a definite plus.

Being separated from other traffic does not prevent punctures though.  George and John noticed that they had a slow leak as we neared the Kinrara R & R.  The rear tire leak was slow enough, and we were close enough to home, that we decided to take the risk of pumping it up and continuing on our way, rather than changing the inner tube.

We exited the KESAS highway at Awan Kecil and took the MEX highway to Jalan Tun Razak.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

One kilometer to go.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

John and George graciously agreed to go to Le’Park@Nasi Lemak Malaya for dinner, and to share stories with some of my cycling friends.

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Photograph courtesy of Danial Marzuki

The Tandem Men have so far covered 10,651km / 6,618mi over 114 days.  About one third of the distance required to become the first people to circumnavigate the world by tandem bicycle.

One of their personal goals is obviously to complete this adventure of a lifetime.  Another is to raise at least £100,000 / RM537,000 / USD130,000 for the three brilliant causes that they have chosen to support on their journey.  The work of these charities changes the lives for many, both locally and internationally. These charities are:

  • Porchlight (which will receive 34%)
  • Great Ormond Street Hospital (which will receive 33%), and
  • WaterAid (which will receive 33%)

If you would like to donate to these charities, please click the link below.

DONATE

It has been a treat and an honour to meet and host George and John.  My friends and I will be following their progress as they cross Australia, ride up through New Zealand, make their way from San Francisco to Panama, and finally ride from Marrakech up through southern Europe and back to Canterbury in England.

Godspeed, and fair winds George and John.

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Photograph courtesy of thetandemmen.com

Audax BRM400 Malaysia 2016 Part 2

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We were at the halfway point.  We were rested and ready to go.  At 9.45am we rolled out of the McDonald’s on Lebuh Skudai Pontian.  Within 400 meters, we started riding up onto an overpass rather than staying left on the filter lane toward Jalan Bertingkat Skudai.

The good thing was that we realised our mistake before crossing the overpass.  However, being a Saturday morning, traffic was heavy, and we couldn’t risk riding the wrong way back down the road.  Instead we had to get over a couple of drains and down a grassy slope.

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Photograph courtesy of Google Maps

Audax lesson 4 was a painful one.  Which is to remember that a brain that has not slept for more than twenty-four hours is prone to making bad decisions.

I stepped across the first drain, my bike in my hands in front of me.  My left foot slipped on the far edge of the drain (in hindsight no surprise, given that a carbon sole is very slippery), and my legs hit the concrete edge as I fell forward onto my bike.

 

My scraped shin and ankle were the least of my injuries.  I also heavily bruised the outside of my right thigh (the photo of my thigh was taken five days later), and I had fallen onto a pedal, so had bruised ribs on the side of my chest as well.

My half-asleep brain was now fully awake.  I was seeing stars, writhing on the grass, and cursing my stupidity.  I wasn’t sure I could continue.  A minute or two later my head cleared, and the pain in my thigh lessened enough for me to feel that I could keep pedalling.

Having seen me fall, the others were very careful to get down to the slip road safely.  I gingerly remounted and we started riding toward Kulai.  The traffic was even heavier on Jalan Bertingkat Skudai.  Like a guardian angel, Johnny Lee appeared beside us on his scooter, whistle between his lips.  Blasting his whistle at traffic, he guided us through innumerable busy junctions over the next 25km / 16mi as we made our way along Lebuhraya Senai and Jalan Kulai – Sedenak.  Thank you sir!

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The only mechanical in our group over the entire ride happened during that stretch.  Mark had a flat rear tire about 40 minutes after we got going after my fall.  I appreciated the opportunity to stop and re-evaluate my condition.  My right thigh concerned me the most.  I was worried that a hematoma would develop, and that would restrict the flexion of my knee.  I decided the best thing would be to keep riding, and to be sure that I kept my right knee bent as much as possible whenever we stopped.  That, and some Panadol Extra, got me through the ride.

We took another break at the Shell station in Kampung Sri Paya.  The 70km / 43mi stretch from there to Checkpoint 3 in Yong Peng was the most taxing part of the entire route.  By then it was midday, with temperatures in the mid 30s° C / mid 90s° F.  Much of the terrain to Yong Peng was rolling hills that required 450 meters / 1,475 feet of climbing.  The road surface was poor in many places, with lots of cracks, potholes, and badly patched sections.  No doubt caused by the constant heavy lorry and bus traffic, some of which passed perilously close to us as they sped past.

I can see why the organisers didn’t send us down Jalan Besar at night.  The road conditions make it too dangerous to cycle in low visibility conditions.

We were dragging along by the time we got to Simpang Renggam.  The first built-up area we had encountered since Kulai, 25km / 16mi prior.  We pulled into the first restaurant we saw, Restoran D’Tepian Amirul.  Some of the others ordered food.  I just wanted fluid.  Once I got two lime juices down my throat, an ais kacang sounded tempting.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

That was exactly what I needed.

The heat and the hills continued to be a challenge.  We stopped at a Shell station roughly halfway between Simpang Renggam and Checkpoint 3.  That was at 2.30pm.  The station proprietor helpfully told us that riders had been stopping there since 8.30am.  That would have been a real hit to the ego if we had been riding for a fast time.

We were instead riding to beat the checkpoint closing times.  We were cutting it a bit fine though.  Checkpoint 3 closed at 4.32.pm.  We got to Yong Peng with an hour to spare.

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Photograph courtesy of Chong Su

It would have been nice to have a fan on my bike, like Sam Tow has on his mobile.

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Photograph courtesy of Chong Su

Yong Peng offered a better alternative.  Air-conditioning in the KFC across the road from Checkpoint 3.  My biker chick met us at the checkpoint with the cycling kit and supplies that we had stashed in her car on Friday morning.

A couple of us changed into fresh gear.  All of us had a drink and something to eat.  And other riders got some shuteye.

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Photograph courtesy of Nash Lim

As planned, we stayed at that KFC in Yong Peng until 5.30pm.  Waiting for the sun to descend in the sky, and for the temperature to drop.  Five and half hours to cover the remaining 107.9km / 67mi seemed reasonable.

We rode out of Yong Peng straight onto more hilly terrain.  After 224 meters / 735 feet of climbing in 20km / 12mi we pulled off the road to catch our breath.  12km / 7mi later we needed another break.  This driveway in front of an empty house between Parit Sulong and Parit Hassan Ahmad Satu was a much nicer place to stop.

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Photograph courtesy of They Wei Chon

We had hoped to get to Muar for dinner.  We hadn’t counted on the 160 meters / 525 feet of elevation facing us over the next 20km / 12mi.  Energy levels were very low when we got to Bakri, so we decided to stop there for nasi lemak, fried chicken and omelettes.

We ate as quickly as we could.  We all knew that we were running short on time.  We left the restaurant with 53km / 33mi left to the finish.  And exactly two hours to do it in.

I learned Audax lesson 5 as we negotiated what should have been the last 31km / 19mi of the ride.  A tired brain should not be relied upon to accurately perform even simple mental calculations.  We had followed the cue card directions to turn left off Jalan Kesang toward Malacca at KM370.1, and to turn left again toward Merlimau at KM377.4.

The cue card showed the left turn to Jalan Permatang Pasir at KM401.8.  Because all our cyclocomputers were not in sync with the cue card, a little bit of mental mathematics was required.  My rested brain easily works out that we should have ridden 24.4km / 15.1mi to the left turn at Jalan Permatang Pasir.

My sleep-deprived and tired brain told me that the left turn was 14.4km / 8.9mi away.  which of course it wasn’t.  I thought we were lost.  Fortunately I was riding with guys who were more lucid than I was.  They dispensed with the cue card and relied on Waze to get us to the finish.  I was not happy.  I thought we were riding even more unnecessary kilometers.  Which was not the case.  Waze took us along the cue card route anyway.

I owe an apology to Sam and his team for my complaint to them about getting lost.

My one suggestion for future Audax BRM cue cards is that the distances between turns not be shown cumulatively.  Instead show the actual distance between each turn.  As illustrated by the red numbers below.

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This way riders do not have to compensate for the difference between the cumulative distance shown on the cue card and the actual distance shown on their cyclocomputer.  The number of the cyclocomputer will almost certainly be different, for all sorts of reasons.  Some mental addition will still be required to use the red numbers, but hopefully even a small brain like mine can cope with that.

We all got to the finish at Dataran Pahlawan with ten minutes to spare before the cutoff time of 11.00pm.  We had made it by the skin of our teeth.

These are some of the two hundred or so riders who completed this Audax BRM400 ride.

It took a combination of physical endurance, determination aka mental strength aka stubbornness, a bit of luck, and perhaps most importantly, the support of others for each of us to get to the finish line.

Be they friends who rode with us, or parents and/or family who were at all the checkpoints and the finish, or partners or spouses who believed in us, even when we doubted ourselves.

This medal is for all the people who supported me through this challenge, as much as it is for me.

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As for the Audax BRM600 to come in 2017.  No comment.

Audax BRM400 Malaysia 2016 Part 1

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This is the ending of my January post about the Audax BRM200 Malaysia 2016:

The teaser video for the 400km / 248mi brevet in September is already out!  The time limit is 27 hours.

The question now is, will my buddies and I ride it?

“No way!”

For now.

As they say, “famous last words.”

Seven of us were in a three-vehicle convoy to Malacca on Friday afternoon.  We had lunch at the McDonald’s on the KL – Seremban Highway, near the Sungai Besi Toll Plaza.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

It is an easy 133km / 83mi drive from that McDonald’s to the Fenix Inn Melaka.  Our base for the weekend.

There was still some important preparation to be done for the long ride ahead.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

My power nap burned through all the calories from lunch.  Some of us walked around the corner for dinner.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

Roasted chicken rice, some of the eponymous chicken rice balls, and an omelette.  The roasted chicken was very good.  The rice balls were mushy and disappointing.  The rice balls would have been better if there was a bit of chicken inside each one.

By 6.45pm we were ready to roll.  We all had additional storage on our bikes to supplement our saddlebags.  Essential items for a long ride like this were one or more power banks to recharge cyclocomputers, lights and mobile phones, extra stocks of energy bars and N8 Endurance drink mix, and small medical kits.

We had prepared as well as we knew how.  Nevertheless we were all a bit nervous at the thought of covering slightly more than 400km / 249mi in 27 hours.  None of us had ever ridden that far before.  Ken (third from the left) had good reason to be more nervous than we were.  His longest ever ride had been only 140km / 87mi, he was on a borrowed bicycle, and he was wearing tennis shoes.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

The event organisers were at the McDonald’s Dataran Pahlawan before 7.00pm to hand out the brevet and cue cards for the ride.

Before I go any further, I must convey a big Thank You to the volunteers who ran this event so smoothly.  Jess Lim, Ray Lee and Chong Su at Checkpoints 1 and 3.  Stefaaniem Choo at Checkpoint 2.  Johnny Lee on his scooter.  Sam Tow in the Audax Landrover Defender.  And Jaykay helping out where needed, while at the same time riding most of the route.

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Photograph courtesy of Sam Tow

By sundown the area was teeming with riders anxious to get their brevet and cue cards, and to make the first of the many, many, many pedal revolutions needed to get to Skudai and back to Malacca.  Including one rider on this specially badged bike.

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Photograph courtesy of Sam Tow

Kudos to the organisers for a much-improved card distribution process.  There was no repeat of the long queues we saw at the Audax BRM200 early this year.  Minutes after arriving at Dataran Pahlawan, we were ready to go.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

We headed first to a Malacca landmark, the historic Dutch Stadthuys, for a photograph.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

The short ride to and from the Stadthuys took us through a procession of lighted trishaws, a distinctive feature of Malacca.

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Photograph courtesy of synergy-tours.com

I wish I could blame the dazzling lights for my leading the group down the wrong side of the McDonald’s at Dataran Pahlawan to start the ride.  409km / 254mi to go, and we picked up some unnecessary extra distance right out of the gate by going the wrong way.

The real culprit was being too dependent on the cue card, excellent though it was, and not studying the route beforehand.  This was the first of a few lessons about riding Audaxes that we learned over the next 27 hours.

Fortunately we were soon back on track, and following a string of blinking red lights southeast along the coast toward Muar.

brm400-route

Our mantra for the night was “start slow, finish strong.”  We kept our speed below 30kph / 19mph as we rolled through Muar and on to Checkpoint 1 at Kompleks Niaga Benteng Peserai, in Batu Pahat.

I was in new territory as the clock ticked toward midnight.  I had never ridden my bike that late at night before.  I think it was a new experience for everyone in the Flipside group.

Team Flipside got to Checkpoint 1 together.  The cue sheet read 93.5km / 58mi.  Our cyclocomputers showed 7km / 4mi more, given our unplanned detour through Malacca.

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Photograph courtesy of Sam Tow

Every time I participate in an organized cycling event, I see something new.  Someone on a bike with an “AUDAX BRM400” label on the down tube, a Specialised S-Works Mclaren Venge, or a unicycle, or an Elliptigo.  This time it was unusual footwear for a long-distance ride.  Those are flip-flops on the feet of the second gentleman from the left.

Don’t laugh.  The last I saw of him and his riding companion, both on small-wheel bikes, were their rear lights disappearing into the distance at more than 30kph / 19mph.

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Photograph courtesy of Sam Tow

After getting our brevet cards stamped, we grabbed some of the sports drink on offer.  100 Plus very kindly donated 1,200 bottles of their Edge non-carbonated isotonic drink to this event.

We also needed something to eat.  Given the late hour, the pickings were slim at the Kompleks Niaga Benteng Peserai.  We needed some help.

Article 7 of the Rules of Brevets Randonneurs Mondiaux states, in part, that

Each rider must be self sufficient. No follow cars or support of any kind are permitted on the course. Personal support is only allowed at checkpoints.

Luckily we had the benefit of support from a person who has local knowledge.  My biker chick is from Batu Pahat, and she, together with my mother-in-law, met us at Checkpoint 1.  She would also meet us fourteen hours later, at Checkpoint 3.

Her advice was to cross the road and eat at the Restoran Ceria Maju Klasik.  It was an excellent suggestion.  Fried rice done in a variety of styles, some fried eggs, and sweet teh tarik.  Just what we needed to set us up for the next leg to Skudai, 113.5km / 70.5mi away.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

We stuck to our plan to keep the pace below 30kph / 19mph, and continued to ride as a group of seven.  At 2.30am, an hour after we left Batu Pahat, we started seeing lightning and hearing thunder in the distance.  By 3.30am the roads looked like this.

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Photograph courtesy of Sam Tow

Marco and I had rain jackets, and we were happy to ride on.  The other Flipsiders did not have wet weather gear, and as the rain got heavier, they decided to take shelter at a bus stop.

The rain came with a strong tail wind.  Marco and I were glad to be pushed along for as long as possible.  We sailed through Pontian Kecil, dodging puddles and ride down the center of the deserted roads. It was a lot of fun for the next 12km / 7mi, until we realised that we should have made a left turn in Pontian Kecil.

Which brings me to the second and third lessons about riding Audaxes.  Lesson 2 is always put your cue card where you can easily refer to it.  Taped to the handlebar or top tube.  Not in a jersey pocket, which makes retrieving the card a hassle.  It is even more of a hassle when your rain jacket covers your jersey pockets.

Lesson 3 is once you do pull out your cue card and realise that you missed a turn, it is better to double back to the turn that you missed.  That is a much smarter option than trying to navigate to the next checkpoint on your own, in the hope of not having to ride too many extra kilometers.

Suffice to say that instead of arriving at Checkpoint 2 in Skudai at about 5.30am, as originally anticipated, Marco and I got there at 8.00am.  Admittedly, thirty minutes of that additional time was spent getting a drink and some you char koay at Bukit Indah, when a hunger bonk threatened with 15km / 9mi still to go before Checkpoint 2.

By the time we stopped for a snack, we had burned ninety minutes on stop-start riding as we navigated through unfamiliar territory via Waze and Google Maps.  Including a failed effort to stay off the Malaysia-Singapore Second Link Expressway.  We finally had to accept that the shortest route from where we were, in Kampung Ulu Pulai, to Checkpoint 2 meant riding for 6km / 3.7mi along that expressway.

That misadventure added another 28km / 17mi of unnecessary riding to our total mileage.

Marco and I put a brave face on things as we finally arrived at the McDonald’s on the Skudai-Pontian Highway.

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Photograph courtesy of Stephaaniem Choo

The five others rolled in to Checkpoint 2 an hour later.  I thought that they might have lost their way as well.  But no.  They all napped for a couple of hours while they waited out the rain.

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Photograph courtesy of Mark Lim

A McDonald’s Brekkie Wrap with Sausage had called my name.  All the tables were occupied by riders who had arrived before us.  So I pulled off my wet shoes and socks, and perched on the curb of the Drive Thru lane.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

The other guys got a table when they arrived.

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Photograph courtesy of Marco Lai

It was 9.00am and we were halfway through the BRM400.  We had fourteen hours to cover the 202km / 126mi back to Dataran Pahlawan in Malacca.  That felt possible.  Despite the faces in this photograph.