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Category Archives: Cycling in the Netherlands

Bicycling 101

The Netherlands is home to about 16.7 million people.  Depending on whom you ask the Dutch own between 14 million and 18.5 million bicycles.  Whichever number you take, that’s a lot of bicycles squeezed into 33,800 sq km of land.  My biker chick and I fit the demographic at the upper end of the range.  Two people and three bikes.

Every year in April some 200,000 twelve year-olds in the Netherlands take a “Verkeersexamen” (traffic test) that includes a section on safe cycling.  I wasn’t twelve at the time but thought it would be a good idea if I also got a proper introduction to cycling safely on Dutch city streets and bicycle paths.  I signed up for an individual half-day “Cycling in Den Haag” session run by Het Fietscollege.

As soon as our freight was unpacked I “Dutchified” my Trek with mudguards, a rear rack and a rack box.  A chain guard and panniers followed soon after.  This was the bike for riding to the supermarket and for doing errands on.  Rain or shine.

Commuter Bike

So this was the bike I rode to the Valkenboskwartier to meet Marja Popper, my cycling instructor for the morning.  She took me on a loop around Kijkduin as she explained how to ride in the city.  For example to always signal before making a turn by extending your left or right arm. And that cyclists can proceed when the bicycle traffic lights are green without worrying about other traffic crossing their path.

Traffic light

And how to negotiate junctions with an advanced stop box like this one, where cyclists can occupy the space in front of motor vehicles while waiting for a green light.

Bike Box

Marja explained  the meaning of the road signs that cyclists encounter.  “Uitgezonderd” means “except”.  In this case the sign indicates no entry for all vehicles except bicycles.  I saw variations of this sign a lot.  Very often there are short cuts accessible only by bicycle.  Just one of the ways that the Dutch make cycling the most convenient mode of transport in towns and cities.

Uitgezonderd

This sign means that cyclists must use the bike path and not cycle on the road.

fietspad

This sign means cyclists can turn right on a red light.

rechtstaf

These “sharks teeth” markings indicate who has the right of way.  If the teeth point toward you then you must give way to whatever is coming from your right or left.  At this junction cyclists have the right of way.

Sharks Teeth

She talked about the rules of the road for cyclists.  For example cycling on the pavements is forbidden.  If there is no cycle lane or path, cyclists must use the road.  Interestingly in these instances cyclists may occupy the center of the lane and other traffic has to follow behind.

Marja made one final point as our lesson came to a close.  Paul Simon may have 50 ways to leave your lover.  The Dutch have 53 ways to fine you for breaking the rules of the road.  On a bike without a bell Mel.  €30.  Riding in a bus lane Jane.  €45.  Didn’t give way to a tram Sam.  €85.  Ran a red light Dwight.  €130.

That knowledge alone was worth the cost of my Cycling 101 session.

Welkom in Nederland

On Tuesday 20th April 2010 I did a last Tuesday ride around the streets of Houston with the West End Six Thirty group.  Our bikes (my road and hybrid bikes, and the biker chick’s cruiser bike), along with the rest of our belongings, had long since departed Houston bound for  Rotterdam.  I had Tom B. to thank for loaning me a bike for the Tuesday ride.  On Thursday I joined the group at Jax for the post-ride meal.  On Friday I collected my passport and visa at the Netherlands consulate, dropped our car off at the freight company, and took a taxi to George Bush Intercontinental Airport to catch my 3.30pm flight.

On Saturday morning I flew into a damp and chilly Amsterdam Schiphol airport.  Den Haag, our home for the next few years, was no drier nor warmer.  I had arrived with a suitcase full of what I had been wearing the week before in Houston.  I had shorts, t-shirts and sandals.  What I should have packed were sweaters, scarves and boots.  My first purchase in the Netherlands was a Nike sweatshirt.  I would have bought gloves too, but the shop assistant told me that winter was over!

The weather stayed pretty ugly for the next few weeks.  Usual Dutch spring weather in other words.  It was five or six weeks before it warmed up enough for me to consider a bike ride.  By then I had found Bikes For Rent.  I reserved a bike for the weekend.  Then I crossed fingers and toes hoping that the weather would not revert to wet and windy.  Fortunately Saturday dawned dry and reasonably warm.  Warm enough for my tropical blood at least.  I rode away from Bikes For Rent on a three-speed Johnny Loco.

Johnny Loco Three Speed

I had a map of the bike route to the beach.  The map was helpful but I soon found that the bike paths in the Netherlands are very well signposted.  The cycling infrastructure is really very good.  The bike paths are very well marked and maintained.  “Yes” everyone checks for bicycles before opening car doors.

Bike path

Cyclists even have their own traffic lights.

Bike light

The path to the dunes and the beach took me past the Scheveningen water tower.  Built in 1874, the tower contains 1 million litres of drinking water and has the largest storage capacity of all the water towers in the Province of Zuid-Holland.  It is still in use today.

The bike trail towards the Scheveningen Pump House

It wasn’t the brightest of days so the North Sea looked pretty raw.

The North Sea

I didn’t expect to see World War Two gun emplacements facing out to sea along the dunes.

Eastward view

On the way home through Scheveningen I saw a few more signs of just how much the bicycle is the go-to mode of transportation for many in the Netherlands.  I’ve seen bike racks before, but these two boys on the right took racks to another level.

Surfboard racks

You can leave your bike in a guarded bike parking areas like this one for less than €1.

Guarded bicycle parking

The route back home took me past the Vredespaleis or Peace Palace.  Andrew Carnegie donated USD1.5 million in 1903 (the equivalent of USD40 million today) to fund the construction of the Vredespaleis.  Today the building houses the International Court of Justice (which is the principal judicial body of the United Nations), the Permanent Court of Arbitration, the Hague Academy of International Law, and the extensive Peace Palace Library.

The Peace Palace

This was a very nice welcome to riding in the Netherlands.  I couldn’t wait for my road bike to arrive.

Eat to Ride, or Ride to Eat?

I learned the hard way that avoiding the bonk, or going hypoglycemic, on a challenging event, requires that I eat to ride.  Both before and during the ride.  Fortunately I don’t do many rides that require eating on the bike.  An activity that demands enough confidence, or stupidity if the roads are bad, to take your hands off the handlebar, sufficient dexterity to fish around behind your back to find your energy bar or gel or whatever, and gills so that you can continue to breathe while chewing and swallowing.  All the while pedaling so you won’t get dropped.

It is much more fun, civilized even, to ride to eat.  Houston’s West End Bicycles Six Thirty group introduced me to the delightful practice of riding as an excuse to eat.  After our Thursday evening rides we would gather at Jax Grill or Romano’s Pizza to “replenish our glycogen stores.”  I have already written about the mid-ride breakfasts at Dona Maria which give Ted’s Taco Ride its name.  Good company, a bit of exercise, good food and lots of laughter.  What a winning hand!

So it was “hip hip hooray” when I discovered that Den Haag’s the Not Possibles end their Saturday morning rides at the Coffee Club in Leidsenhage.  Appeltaart and the occasional uitsmijter are the foods of choice in Den Haag.  We have been known to linger over a second koffie verkeerd, purely for health reasons of course!

Malaysians live to eat.  That is indisputable.  So naturally every ride here involves eating.  Either mid-ride, or after the ride, or both.  Even the rides that require you to eat to ride, like the Broga 116, end with food of some description provided by the organizers.  The meal of choice for the Racun Cycling Gang and the Cyclistis is often the humble roti canai.  With a teh tarik to wash it down with.

Photo courtesy of Mark Lim

The best roti canai are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.  Everyone who has ever had one wants another.  And another.  And another.  This was during a ride to Kundang.  Specifically to eat some roti canai at this roadside stall.  Shahfiq is taking an e-break.  I am starting on my second roti.

Photo courtesy of Mark Lim

The eating is only part of the experience.  Watching your roti canai being made is entertaining too.  Which you can do now too, courtesy of this video by Mark Wiens from his blog Migrationology.  As a bonus you will see teh tarik, the quintessential drink to go with your roti, being made.

I’ve been looking through Mark’s blog as I wrote this post.  His write ups and photos are making me hungry.  Good thing there is a ride this evening.  I need an excuse to eat a roti canai or two.

. . . Just the Wrong Clothes

As someone once said, there is no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes.

After my plastic bag booties ride the days continued to shorten and the average temperatures fell into the single digits centigrade.  I am a tropical person through and through.  If I was going to ride through the Houston winter I had no choice but to add to my cold-weather wardrobe.  The guys at West End Bicycles equipped me with DeFeet Blaze socks for my eternally cold feet, Endura tights and a jacket for my torso, and Specialised long-fingered gloves.  Icebreaker base layers and a beanie completed my starter winter ensemble.  When below-freezing temperatures arrived I bought a scarf and a balaclava.  This is what kept my head, neck and hands warm.

There were times when I looked more like the Michelin Man than a cyclist.  Dane S took this photo of our Six Thirty group shivering at the start of the 2010 Tour de Houston.  Do you think Skip regretted not wearing a jacket?

By the time I moved to Den Haag my tolerance for cold had improved somewhat.  Even so double socks weren’t enough to keep my toes warm in the constant wind.  So I added a pair of Shimano RW80 Winter Road shoes to my arsenal.  Three of us were wearing RW80s on the Not Possibles Christmas ride last year.  Andrew B’s son on the other hand looks like he spends most of his days in Antarctica.

Reverse Dragon’s Back

I was so excited to finally do my first long ride in Kuala Lumpur today that I could hardly sleep last night.  So it was no hardship to be up at 5.30am for breakfast.  That gave me time to drive the 27 km to Bukit Jelutong.  I got to the rendezvous point at 6.50am.  Mark L. arrived shortly thereafter, followed by Wan A.  By 7.30am we were a Racun Cycling Gang of four roadies and three foldies, ready to get on the road.  We weren’t the only ones heading out for a ride this morning.  The car park quickly filled up with all sorts of vehicles that disgorged all sorts of bikes and riders.

Mark led us on what he described as a Reverse Dragon’s Back ride.  Which meant tackling the six hills that make up the Dragon’s Back at the start of the ride rather than at the end.  A wise choice in my book given the potential for roasting sunshine by midmorning.

As it turned out we were lucky with the sun.  It was humid and fairly warm, but it stayed overcast for most of the morning.  I was glad that I had sunscreen on though.  I picked up some color in spite of the cloud cover.

Riding in Kuala Lumpur reminds me of riding in Houston.  The Houston weather, at least in the summer, rivals Kuala Lumpur’s for heat and humidity.  More to the point, riding in Kuala Lumpur requires cycling alongside all manner of motorized vehicles.  Fortunately I had a gentle reintroduction to sharing the road.  The Sunday traffic was relatively light.  This is Mark coasting down one of the humps on the Dragon’s Back with just the occasional car for company.

Some of the major tollroads have separate motorcycle lanes.  Which of course make excellent bike paths.  Almost like the ones in the Netherlands.  After the Dragon’s Back and a stop for a drink we rode for 30 km on the motorcycle lanes alongside the Guthrie Corridor Highway.  The road surface is excellent and as it was a Sunday there were very few motorbikes out.

What is different here as compared to Houston and Den Haag is the lush and verdant foliage that covers everything beyond the shoulders of the roads.  Vegetation quickly reclaims any cleared land.  In just a few years secondary jungle takes hold.

The route that Mark chose was one that few other riders were on today.  We had long stretches to ourselves, including one 5 km section where Mark and and I were able to cruise along at better than 40 kph.  We stopped at regular intervals to regroup, including at the point where we would leave the highway.  Once back together again we returned to the urban roads.  From there we gently pedaled the last 2 km to where we had parked our cars.  Which just coincidentally was right in front of a ‘restoran mamak.’

These are very popular restaurants run by Indian Muslims.  These restaurants grew out of the roadside stall equivalent known as ‘gerai mamak.’  Some gerai and restoran mamak are open 24 hours a day.  All serve a variety of food and drink, including the ubiquitous roti canai and teh tarik.  Those make up the standard order at the end of a ride in Kuala Lumpur, in the same way a koffie verkeerd and an appelgebak met slagroom put the finishing touch to a ride in Den Haag.

R R Go Away, Come Again Another Day

The weather had looked threatening all afternoon.  The heavens finally opened in spectacular fashion at 6.30pm.  Thunder, lightning, and lots of water.  This was the view from our hotel room at 7.00pm.  Droplets still running down the window, but the main show was over.

Emails about the weather were a common feature of ride days in Houston.  A number of online weather sites were consulted.  Screen shots of radar images went out.  Six Thirty riders looked out of their office windows and reported about the state of the roads along the ride route.  If the roads were going to be wet at 6.30pm the ride would be canceled.  The Six Thirty group never rode in the wet if it could be avoided.  I remember just one occasion where we got caught in a deluge about halfway through the ride.  Somewhere in the vicinity of the old Masonic Lodge on the corner of Brompton Road and North Braeswood Boulevard.  Whatever the weather there was one constant.  The words “rain” and “wind” were never used.  It was always just R and W.  One of those cyclists’ superstitions.  Which I will disregard for the rest of this post.

The weather featured large in Den Haag too.  Saturday morning Not Possibles rides and all other rides were preceded by a look at various weather forecasts.  The concern was less about the rain though.  It rains much less in Den Haag – 25 cm / 10 in annually than in Houston at 122 cm / 48 in per year.  Plus everyone in the Netherlands seems to be very comfortable with riding in the wet.  We often rode on wet bike paths and in the rain.  A waterproof jacket and SKS Raceblade Long fenders were essential items.

For The Not Possibles it was more about the direction of the wind.  The average windspeed in Den Haag is 28.6 kph / 17.8 mph compared to 13.3 kph / 8.3 mph in Houston.  The decision to be made prior to the start of every ride was which way to head out so that there would be a tail wind on the return leg.  The wind in Den Haag is a fickle beast though.  We had many rides where the wind seemed to be in our faces no matter which heading we were on.  On some particularly windy days we chose to sail along with the wind, spinning at an effortless 50 kph for an hour or more.  Then we would ride the train back home.

The amount of rain in Kuala Lumpur is double that in Houston.  We get 240 cm / 94.5 in a year here.  This evening’s downpour dumped a significant amount of water onto the streets.  Enough water for Albert K to call at 7.15pm to say that the Racun Cycling Gang evening ride had been called off.  The fall during last week’s ride is still fresh in the memory.  That no doubt contributed to the decision to cancel this evening.  I shall have to get used to the R getting in the way of riding here.